Read all about me in the blog post I previously published...

10.01.2023

It's the second day of work, and I just now have enough time to write about my arrival 4 days ago. Departure from the US came upon me quickly, as I spent my last days celebrating the holidays with my cousins. I flew CVG > CDG > DUS, then took the train DUS > Duren > Juelich. My first and longest flight was smooth, with in-flight dinner and breakfast. In case you were wondering, Delta serves mediocre Chicken or Ravioli Pasta for dinner, and a disgusting fake-egg breakfast sandwich. However, I did enjoy the snacks that I packed for myself. Flying into the sunrise was wonderful (see pic above), even if I didn't get any sleep. The next flight was a little less enjoyable, with an hour delay and ground boarding in the rain. When I finally arrived in Dusseldorf, I had to ask several employees how to buy tickets for and access the train. This was the point where I realized I do not know enough German to get around. Yet, people were grateful to help, even in English. Because I was late, I had to find my own way to my Airbnb (which I have for the first month- still looking for long-term housing hahahaha). The host was very welcoming, fluent in English, and even brought me extra resources about the region. I have a private apartment for now, which is really fancy and in the city center. This is really convenient because the shops are just down the street. I have already been to the small discount grocery market next to my place for essentials. 

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Some key apartment differences from America here:

- there are 5 different types of recycling/trash cans

- radiators are more common than central air

- you must manually change which sink will have hot water

- apartments may not have ovens nor more than 2 stovetop burners

- bicycle parking is usually a given

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Some key grocery differences from America here:

- the eggs are unrefrigerated and in the pasta aisle

- there are fewer brands but all are cheap

- no bagels, only Brötchen (bread buns)

- bring your own bag/basket

- no bagger and you must load as they scan ( the counter is short and people in line are impatient)

- P.S. the food here TASTES so good, I didn't realize how bland American food is...

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I have to take the bus to work and the train to travel to other cities. My supervisor was kind enough to let me borrow one of her bikes, which I am very grateful for. The extensive bus and train system here is nice, but poorly explained in English. I would recommend doing a little bit of research on different types of tickets and get the DB app before arriving. It is comical how much Germans complain about trains when it seems like a luxury to me. I agree that public transit can be a bit unreliable here, but compared to America, it is fantastic. 
 

So far, I have only visited Cologne, but I like the cozy vibe of my small town of Juelich. I can find all kinds of stores within walking distance and work is only a 20 min bus/train/bike ride away. People here are relatively friendly, and I can't wait to explore more!

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Daily Life:

I recently moved out of my Airbnb to the small village of Krauthausen. When I arrived, I was greeted by a pair of pheasants crossing the train tracks at the local station. On my Sunday walk, I saw several families with dogs and one just casually taking their pet miniature horse on a stroll. I guess that was a culture shock for me, but "at least it wasn't a pig", my friend told me.

I bike to work every morning through pothole-ridden farm roads. The landscape is flat, with the only land feature in sight being the local strip mine. Although I have never lived in a more isolated location, I feel perfectly safe. I know that none of these farmers own guns, or at least won't threaten with them like Americans do. I start my quiet life optimistically, hoping I won't get bored...

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Language:

Important German sayings and what they mean:

"Nee": Basically "No" but with a subtle hint of "on the contrary".

"HAllo!": Used to get someone's attention, especially when they are doing something wrong. I heard this while sitting on a train station bench with my feet tucked under me (apparently that's unclean by German standards). 

"Deutsche Bahn": Often preceded or followed by a complaint about the train. Often delayed and unreliable, the train system here is a regular topic of grievances.

"Eff Zett Yott": This one is specific to my research institute (abbreviated FZJ). However, Germans love to abbreviate things due to the long, complex compound words common in the language.

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Holidays:

Germans take their holidays seriously. My workplace gives 20 days of vacation per year, in addition to public holidays. This may sound great, but it slows down the already lengthy bureaucratic processes because someone along the chain of custody is always on vacation.

The holiday of Karneval is coming up next week here in North-Rhine Westphalia. It is the biggest party in Germany, lasting for about four days. I can't wait to experience it, and see if it lives up to all of the buzz I've been hearing for the past month.

I currently live in the small village of Krauthausen, between the small town of Julich to the North, and slightly bigger city of Duren to the South. My village is strictly residential, and it doesn't even have a grocery store. However, there are several bigger villages with supermarkets only 10-15 mins away by bike. It truly is an adventure in itself to buy what you need and pack it in such a way that it doesn't fall off the back of your bike...

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What is really convenient about this region is the quantity and quality of bicycle trails. Here, bike lanes are separated from the road, making them completely safe and enjoyable. I bike 20 minutes to work daily through farm fields, and on the weekends I like to explore the area:

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I have some friends that live in Julich (10 min by train) and we have gone on some local adventures too:

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With the train tracks just outside of my window, it is very easy for me to travel around the area. To get to bigger cities and the rest of Europe, I must first take the Rurtalbahn (local train) down to Duren, where it connects to the RRX (regional train) that goes to bigger cities like Cologne and Dusseldorf. More on travel outside of my region later...

Name of Company 

Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH
 

Semester of Participation

Spring and summer 2023

Company’s location within the host country 

Forschungszentrum Juelich is located in the municipality of Julich, North-Rhine Westphalia in western Germany. Nearest German cities are Cologne, Bonn, and Duesseldorf to the East, and Aachen to the West. It is also close to the border of Belgium and the Netherlands. The exact location can be seen pinned on the map on the left.

Overview and history of the company

Forschungszentrum Juelich is a German research facility. The center has three main research foci: energy, information and bioeconomy. "With around 6,800 employees (2021) in ten institutes and 80 departments, as a member of the Helmholtz Association of German Research Centers, it is one of the largest research institutions in Europe." (Wikipedia)

History, from Wikipedia:

"After the victorious powers of the Second World War allowed the post-war Federal Republic of Germany to resume research on the peaceful use of nuclear energy with the Paris Agreement of May 5, 1955, the state government of North Rhine-Westphalia announced on February 29, 1956 its intention to set up "nuclear research facilities". . Leo Brandt , Secretary of State in the Ministry of Economics and Transport in North Rhine-Westphalia, presented the state parliament on June 26, 1956 with a detailed plan for a joint nuclear research facility of the Universities of Bonn, Cologne and Münster, the Technical University of Aachen and the Medical Academy in Düsseldorf. This provided for the construction of two reactors and 13 institutes together with the associated central supply and safety systems. On December 11, 1956, the state parliament of North Rhine-Westphalia approved this proposal. This day is considered the hour of birth of the institution, the research-politically extremely active Leo Brandt as its founder. [7] On November 19, 1957, the state government chose the Stetternich State Forest in what was then the state forest from several possible locations in the district of Jülich."

Name and description of the department/area/division you work in 

Briefly, I work in the FZJ IBG-2 ABB Algae group. What that means: the Institute for Bio- and Geo-Sciences (IBG), in the area Plant Sciences (2), with a focus on developing Alternative Biomass (ABB), specifically using Algae. The research goal of my group is to "develop alternative biomass resources based on perennial plants and algae".

Your position: task, projects, day-to-day etc. 

As a student research intern, my job is to independently develop, perform, and present an experiment. My project was to study laboratory-scale Algal Turf Scrubbers (ATS) and their effectiveness in removing pharmaceutical contaminants from water. 

There are several phases in an experiment. In the beginning, your tasks are mostly reading existing literature, researching methods, and getting trained on laboratory equipment. Then, you must develop an experiment and think through all of the details such as independent and dependent variables, environmental conditions, and data collection procedures. After several attempts to begin your experiments (there are always factors you don't think about), you can begin to collect data. Finally, you analyze the results, write a thesis, and present to your supervisor. If all goes well, there is potential for publication.

I worked about 40% at my computer, researching and writing, and 60% in the laboratory, maintaining my ATS and performing experiments. For this position there are several skills required including scientific communication, experimental design, and laboratory techniques which you receive training for.

Workplace culture of company/department 

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My favorite part of the workplace is the setting. The research institute is located in the countryside, and is surrounded by a dense patch of woods. It is quiet, and teeming with wildlife. I have seen hares, deer, and many birds. There are trails built around the institute which allow you to walk through the woods on your lunch break. The cafeteria overlooks a pond in which lives a beaver, with whom the institute is at constant battle with over the remaining trees.

FZJ is also very bike-friendly, with marked lanes and even a separate entrance for bicyclists. My bike ride to work is one of the most peaceful commutes I've ever had.

Compare and contrast the workplace of host country and USA 

One huge difference between German and US workplaces is the work-life balance. In Germany, personal time and vacation is valued a lot more. Each year you get 20 vacation days in addition to days for sick leave, maternity leave, and personal appointments. On Fridays, it is not unusual to find the office empty, especially in the afternoon. After finishing their tasks, many people go home to get the weekend started early. Moreover, my institute is a lot more flexible with working from home. 

Also, communication within the office is a lot different here at the institute. People here prefer to talk face-to-face or by telephone instead of emails. Oftentimes someone will pop into your office for a quick chat, or pick up the landline to discuss something. I find these methods much more effective, but when I do send an email, it is quite frustrating that the reply takes a much longer time.

With my abundant free time and the many public holidays in my region, I was able to travel through Europe while working in Germany. On my travel Instagram, (@reisenleib) I feature all of my trips and some other weekend activities in more detail. Check it out!

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So far, I have visited 7 countries and 20 cities:

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Within Germany, I visited Cologne, Duesseldorf, Bonn, Aachen, Frankfurt, and

In May 2023, the German train company Deutsche Bahn released a 49 Euro ticket that allows for unlimited regional train and bus rides for a month. I plan to buy it in June to make more trips within Germany.

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Living in Western Germany, I was very close to Belgium, France, and The Netherlands. I traveled by train to Amsterdam, Eindhoven, Liege, Brussels, Bruges, Rotterdam, Lisse, The Hague, Maastricht, Paris, and

It is a little bit stressful to travel by train, especially from Germany because the Deutsche Bahn is always delayed. However, with high speed trains and online schedules, it's quite easy to get around. To Paris, I traveled on the Thalys train line which is expensive, but very comfortable with cushy velvet seats and WiFi on board. 

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I was so lucky to find a group of adventurous friends at work, so we traveled together on most weekends. I also got to meet up with other ICP students, my cousin in Rotterdam that I hadn't seen since 2013, and my friend who was an exchange student in high school with me in 2018. The thing that makes traveling most fun is the people, and I am grateful to have so many friends around the world to enjoy it with!

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On longer holidays, I used the time to fly and meet up with my family. I was able to see Barcelona & Madrid with my sister, Prague with my mom, and Croatia with my cousin.

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After my co-op ends, I have two weeks before school begins again, so I may take that time for additional travel time around Europe.

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My last two weeks in Europe I traveled through Scandinavia and Switzerland using up the last of my paycheck. Leaving Germany was tough and saying goodbye to my friends was heartbreaking. I have never been more emotional during a transition, and it still comes up even while writing this. I miss my people!!

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The last few weeks in Germany were miserable. I was wrapping up my project by writing a thesis at my desk most days, and in-between taking care of bureaucratic matters like de-registration. It rained for two weeks straight. My fridge broke. I caught a cold. The universe was telling me not to leave. Or at least this is how I perceived it. Yet, as always, my friends supported me by spending last moments together and creating a heartfelt farewell present! <3

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Then I made my way through Scandinavia, exploring Stockholm, Oslo, and Copenhagen with one of my good friends from high school. Coldest summer vacation I have ever been on, but the cinnamon buns and fun memories were worth it!

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Switzerland was by far my favorite experience!!! I truly saved the best for last! The landscape was breathtaking and the accommodations could not have been better ;) I swam in the bluest water, hiked the coolest mountains, and saw the cutest cows. I still think about it every day and wish to return!

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But, life goes on, and I eventually returned to the United States. The day after I came back, my family and I attended the Kentucky State Fair. What a reverse culture shock! I felt like a tourist in my home state, gawking at the sights and locals. I enjoyed the corn dog and funnel cake that I missed for 8 months, and all became familiar again. Y'all, I'm ready for the next adventure!

It’s a little cliché to say that international travel is life-changing, but it’s true. After over 200 days in Germany, I think I have the right to own this stereotype. In almost every aspect in my life, I experienced cultural difference and personal growth that has shaped me into a better person. It will take me some time to completely unpack all of my new experiences, but for now I’ll try to summarize what I already can. In Germany, there is a stark division between “work” and “life”, so I will frame this essay in a similar manner. In each of those aspects, I found change in both personal and interpersonal skills, culture, and habits.

Work

As a bit of background, I was employed at Forschungszentrum Juelich, an independent research organization in the Helmholtz Association focused on applied science. I worked as a research intern in the Institute of Bio- and Geo-Sciences – Plant Sciences (IBG-2). I designed and executed an independent research project studying Algal Turf Scrubbers to remove pharmaceutical contaminants from wastewater. My responsibilities were split 50:50 between laboratory and computer work.

Because I was working on an independent research project, my schedule and experimental design was mostly self-guided. Although I had a supervisor who helped me along the way, I mainly had to judge my progress alone, and keep myself motivated. This was different than my previous internships where I mostly relied on the schedule and tasks assigned by my supervisor. Here, I felt that I had more freedom but at the same time more pressure to show results that I accomplished independently. I came to learn that working hours at my company were very flexible, and work-from-home was common. This was clear especially on Fridays, when many employees stayed home or took the day off, and the office and cafeteria were nearly empty. I found this to be very advantageous for travel purposes, as it was very easy to take Friday off or leave earlier for my weekend trips. Personal time is valued more in Germany than in the US, so Germans are more likely to leave as soon as their work for the week is done than to than to stay late on Friday starting something new. It is also common here to wish people “Shoenes Feierabend” which directly translates to “Nice Party-Evening”, no matter if it is Friday or Monday. Of course, not everybody parties every night of the week after work, but this alludes to the fact that most people celebrate the end of the work day!

Compared to my previous work experience, I found the company culture to be a lot different. The people at the research center were a lot more open and wanting to expand their knowledge or strive for something more. This was apparent especially with the amount and intensity of networking events. A majority of the employees at the research centers are PhD students, so get-togethers were common. When meeting, everyone seemed eager to hear what each other’s project was and make professional connections for the future. I found this very inspiring and also helpful to imagine my future career. Where I worked previously at Honda, most employees were satisfied in their position and had no desire to personally better themselves, which was a little depressing to me.

Overall, I really enjoyed the work culture in Germany and I think it aligns with my personal values best. I’m not sure if I would return to this country or company again, but it was a great experience.

Life

I noticed a lot of changes in my personal life too. Mainly, I felt my self-confidence improve greatly. Because I was new to Germany and alone, I had to start making personal connections from zero. I took it upon myself to step out of my comfort zone and talk more. It really helped to have such a great community of international research students at my institute who were facing the same circumstances as me, and wanted to make connections just as eagerly. My friend group became a jumble of nationalities and personalities. I met such amazing people that truly changed the way I live my life. I feel more comfortable now interacting with new people and knowing that there are people out there who I “vibe” with.

Self-enjoyment and spending habits are also a bit different in Germany. A lot of people are more frugal, which fit my situation as a college student quite well. However, Europeans tend to value their free time more, and therefore aren’t shy to splurge sometimes. I learned to value the food I eat and the products I buy a lot more. I think this also had to do with the higher quality of produce and durability of what is sold in Europe. Aside from my spending habits, I will also take home the high value on personal time. On Sundays, everything is closed in Germany and the people get time to enjoy themselves outdoors and with their families and friends. Although I will not be able to travel to such cool places as in Europe, I think I will continue to find time to bike or hang out with friends on weekends, with no stress about work. I find this to be conducive to good mental and physical health as well as strong interpersonal relationships.

Returning to American culture was hard, because I felt that the European lifestyle fit my values more closely. But, I feel that I can translate some of the most important aspects and live a little better now. This experience was metamorphic. Work and life will never be the same for me.

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Shoenes Feierabend!

-Hannah